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Zbl 1135.76007
Constantin, A.; Johnson, R.S.
Propagation of very long water waves, with vorticity, over variable depth, with applications to tsunamis.
(English)
[J] Fluid Dyn. Res. 40, No. 3, 175-211 (2008). ISSN 0169-5983

Summary: We present a theory of very long waves propagating on the surface of water. The waves evolve slowly, both on the scale $\varepsilon$ (weak nonlinearity), and on the scale $\sigma$ of the depth variation. In our model, dispersion does not affect the evolution of the wave even over the large distances that tsunamis may travel. We allow a distribution of vorticity, in addition to variable depth. Our solution is not valid for depth of order $O(\varepsilon^{4/5})$; the equations here are expressed in terms of the single parameter $\varepsilon^{2/5}\sigma$ and matched to the solution in deep water. For a slow depth variation of background state (consistent with our model), we prove that a constant-vorticity solution exists, from deep water to shoreline, and that regions of isolated vorticity can also exist, for appropriate bottom profiles. We describe how the wave properties are modified by the presence of vorticity. Some graphical examples of our various solutions are presented.
MSC 2000:
*76B15 Wave motions (fluid mechanics)
76B47 Vortex flows
76M45 Asymptotic methods, singular perturbations
86A05 Hydrology, hydrography, oceanography

Keywords: multiple scales; weak nonlinearity; constant-vorticity solution

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Scientific prize winners of the ICM 2010
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